Rechercher un produit :
– Check that the safe is working
– Check that you have all the necessary equipment to embed your safe:
– 1 meter – 1 level – 1 pencil – 1 marker or adhesive – 1 tracing rule or 1 mason’s rule – 1 drill – 1 long concrete drill bit – 1 grinding machine (with diamond disc) – 1 pair of protective gloves – 1 pair of safety glasses – 1 dust mask (preferably with filter) – 1 perforator – 1 hammer and 1 chisel – 1 pliers – 1 set of wrenches – 1 trowel – 1 float – 1 cement tank – 1 water vaporizer – 1 sponge – Wooden wedges – Formwork boards – Mortar
Optional: – 1 cutter – Plastic film
– Make sure there are no electrical cables or water or gas pipes
– Make sure the trunk is placed in a dry place: avoid walls exposed to humidity or strong temperature variations that can cause condensation to form inside the trunk. This would damage the objects and documents that are being protected.
– Make sure that the wall is deep enough with 10cm thicker than the depth of the safe to be walled in
– Make sure the wall is strong (stone concrete block or load-bearing wall)
– Protect the front face of the safe to be walled in with a plastic film if you have fear of damaging it during handling
Use the outline drawing provided with the installation plan of your safe to find out the dimensions of the safe and add 15 cm to the length and width.NB: If you have lost the documentation, then measure the back of the safe and add 15 cm to the measured length and width. Level these dimensions on the wall. For tracing, there are different possible techniques
Use a level long enough to be able to draw the flush mounting contours directly. If your level is too small, use a plotting ruler or mason's ruler and adjust the plumbing of the ruler to the bubble level before transferring the contour to the wall.
Use a thick enough cardboard (1 mm) to serve as a template for the drawing - Draw the contours of the embedding to the dimensions marked with a pencil - With a ruler and a cutter, cut the cardboard carefully - Present the cardboard template on the wall at the desired location and then adjust the plumb of the cardboard template to the bubble level before transferring its outline to the wall.
Depth
Use the outline drawing provided with the installation plan of your trunk to find out the depth of the hole, which should be 10 cm deeper than the trunk.
NB: If you have lost the documentation, then measure the depth of the safe to be walled in and add 10 cm to the measured depth. The depth mark is done with a drill and a fairly long drill bit. To avoid drilling too deeply, mark a marker or tape an adhesive to the drill bit to the desired length.
Then make a hole at the 4 corners of the installation space. This will serve as a reference so as not to dig too deep.
Start by cutting the wall with a grinder at the level of the traced contour, it is important to follow the trace well by keeping the disc perpendicular to the wall.
Then continue with a perforator or with a hammer and chisel according to the hardness of the wall, regularly check the dimensions of the hole, including the embedding depth at different points.
Make the finishing touches with a hammer and chisels (sharp and flat)
To reinforce the inking of the box, attach threaded rods to the anti-pullout fins on the burr on the back of the box (skirt that extends over each side of the box), at the level of the perforations.
You can use arched threaded rods or bolts that are locked with nuts.
You can also use metal expansion dowels. Simply lock the ankle with a universal clamp and tighten its screw to expand the ankle.
Depending on the model, your safe can be sealed with the frame edge to the wall or completely recessed, 2cm inside the wall edge.
Method 01 : Sealing the trunk 2cm inside the edge of the wall so that it is completely embedded.
This first method is recommended because it reinforces the protection against tearing and makes it easier to finish.
– Start by positioning the trunk in the hole and adjusting the height with stops (wooden or metal stops)
– Check its horizontal and vertical alignment with a level while keeping 2 cm of distance from the wall inside the hole.
– Measure the 2 cm depth with a tape measure and a plotting ruler (if you do not have one, use a form board), the trunk must be perfectly wedged and aligned.
Attach the formwork board to the bottom of the cavity and prepare your mortar. You can use water repellent liquid to prevent dirt and mildew around your trunk in case of water damage. Moisten the walls of the embedding hole to facilitate the adhesion of the mortar. Preferably use a sprayer, which will allow the substrate to be homogenously humidified and will prevent you from spilling water or leaving too many traces on the wall)
Fill the base of the hole with mortar, taking care to press the mortar firmly with your trowel.
Continue to fill the sealing cavity 2/3 full before placing formwork boards on the sides.
Remove the boards, finish filling and smoothing the top of the hole with a float and the edges inside around the trunk. Let it harden
Method 02 : Sealing your edge box frame with the wall
If you seal your safe edge frame with the wall, then the sealing will be done in 2 steps:
Step 1: Preparation of a foundation that will support the front of the trunk and act as a formwork.
– Start by fixing a formwork board at the front of the cavity at a level. – Prepare mortar (possibility of adding water-repellent liquid if desired).
Moisten the bottom of the installation hole and the sides at the height of the formwork with a sprayer.
Fill the formwork to the edge of the board, remembering to pack the mortar well with the trowel and smooth the surface with a float.
Allow to cure for as long as necessary. Your slab must be perfectly level
Step 2: Sealing your safe
– Prepare your mortar
– Fill the cavity about one-third full before installing the trunk.
– Take the time to center it properly and adjust its positioning and alignment to the wall using a mason’s ruler. Let the mortar set and harden a little.
– Place the formwork boards and finish filling the mortar hole while checking the positioning and alignment of your safe.
– Remove the formwork boards, smooth the surface with a float and allow it to harden for as long as necessary.
– Remove the protective plastic film (use a cutter) if you have chosen to cover the face of the body of your safe so as not to damage it. Check again that the lock and door opening are working properly.
Keep the door of your safe open for about 1 week to allow the moisture generated by the work to evaporate.
Your built-in box is ready to use. All you have to do now is to make the aesthetic finishes.
